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A & J Gold Leaf
Miniature Schnauzers
409-892-3812
www.goldleafminiatureschnauzers.com
History of the
Miniature
Schnauzer
The Miniature Schnauzer
was developed in the late 1800s as a small farm dog and
ratter in Germany. It was derived from crossing the Standard
Schnauzer with the Affenpinscher. The Miniature
Schnauzer was exhibited as a breed distinct from the
Standard Schnauzer by 1899 in Germany, although it wasn't
until 1933 that the American Kennel Club divided the
Standard and Miniature into separate breeds. The Miniature
is the only Schnauzer to remain in the Terrier Group in
America. In England it joins the other Schnauzers in the
Utility Group. The Miniature Schnauzer came to America long
after its Standard and Giant counterparts, but eventually
became the third most popular breed in America at one time.
Miniature Schnauzers developed from crosses between the
Standard Schnauzer and one or more smaller breeds such as
the Poodle, Miniature Pinscher or
Affenpinscher. The Standard Schnauzer was the original
size; then they were bred with smaller breeds to produce the
Miniature Schnauzer. Therefore, because the Standard
Schnauzer was bred down to other smaller breeds; the height and
weight is based strictly on the background generational
history of the their parent and their ancestors. No warranty
or guarantee is made to the disposition,
appearance, lifespan, height, weight, color, show quality or breeding
quality of any puppy or dog.
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Schnauzer Attributes
Schnauzer Attributes
Standard Schnauzers
Miniature
Schnauzers
Male
Height---18-20 inches (46-51 cm)
Male Height---12-14 inches (30-36 cm)
Male
Weight---30-45 pounds (14-20 kg) Male Weight---11-20 pounds (5-7 kg)
Female
Height---17-19 inches (43-48 cm)
Female Height---12-14 inches (30-36 cm)
Female
Weight---30-40 pounds 914-18 kg)
Female Weight---11-20 pounds (5-7 kg)
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Advantages
of Leaving a Female Dog Intact and Unspayed
A spayed female
dog cannot breed. Spaying a dog makes it impossible for the dog to
achieve pregnancy. If there's any chance that a dog owner may want
to breed a female dog, spaying should be postponed. An ethical
breeder who is concerned for the health of a female dog will only
allow the dog to birth two or three litters of puppies; once the dog
is finished breeding, she can be spayed, thereby getting all of the
health advantages, just a bit later in life.
Spayed or neutered
dogs cannot be show dogs. The largest, and most respected kennel
clubs shows, like the American Kennel Club (AKC) will disqualify a
spayed or neutered dog from competing in breed conformation dog
shows. Therefore, a show dog cannot be spayed or neutered until he
or she has retired from the dog show ring.
The
Advantages and Benefits of Spaying a Dog
A spayed dog will
not go into heat. A dog in heat can exhibit an array of undesirable
behaviors. A dog in heat will often "call" and vocalize as a way to
signal potential males. A female dog in heat will also be more prone
to wandering or running away when she's in heat and she may return
pregnant, which brings with it a whole host of health concerns. A
female dog in heat will also be attractive to male dogs, hanging
around the home of a dog in heat.
A spayed dog
cannot get pregnant. It's obvious benefit, but a significant one.
Terminating an unwanted dog pregnancy can be expensive and risky. A
pregnant dog can be difficult to care for and once the puppies are
born, they will require at least eight weeks of intensive care.
Proper veterinary care for pregnant dog can also be very expensive,
particularly if complications arise. In some cases. a female dog may
die during pregnancy or during the whelping process. Anyone
considering breeding a dog should remember this rule of thumb; Don't
breed a dog unless you're prepared for the possibility of losing
her.
Spaying a dog
makes her less attractive to pet thieves. Unfortunately, there are
many cases when an intact dog will be stolen from a yard or kennel
and used for breeding. Clearly, it's easier to determine whether a
male dog is intact, but many dogs are also stolen from kennels and
boarding facilities, where a quick look at the dog's file will
reveal if she is spayed. A spayed dog is useless to a dog thief who
is seeking a "breeder."
A spayed dog is a
healthier dog. Higher hormone levels are associated with a higher
risk of developing cancer and other diseases. Spaying or neutering a
dog lowers hormone levels, thereby reducing the dog's health risks.
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Advantages
of Not Neutering and Leaving a Dog Intact
The dog may be
used for breeding in the future. If there's a chance a dog may be
bred in the future, it's best to hold off on neutering the dog. The
neutering surgery can be performed at any age. So once the male dog
has sired a few litters of puppies, he can be neutered at that time,
thereby giving him the health benefits that neutering provides
albeit later in life.
The dog will be
eligible to take part in dog shows. The American Kennel Club (AKC)
and other organizations will disqualify a male dog from show
competition if he is neutered. Therefore, if the dog may be destined
for a career as a show dog, then the dog owner will want to opt to
keep the dog intact and unneutered.
Advantages
and Benefits of Neutering a Dog
The dog will be
healthier due to lower testosterone levels. High testosterone levels
such as those found in unneutered dogs have been associated with
illness and disease, like cancer. In fact, testicular cancer is a
fairly common form of cancer that only affects intact dogs.
Neutering a dog will make testicular cancer an impossibility and the
dog will be less prone to developing other forms of cancer later in
life.
The dog will
exhibit fewer territorial behaviors, like urine marking.
Testosterone fuels territorial behaviors like lig lifting, barking
and urine marking. A neutered dog will also be less apt to exhibit
territorial aggression toward other dogs and humans.
A neutered dog
wanders less. When a female dog is in heat, a male dog can sense
this and this causes many unneutered male dogs to wander off and run
away from home in search of a female dog in heat.
A neutered dog
cannot produce offspring. An obvious but major advantage, a neutered
dog cannot reproduce. Neutering a dog makes meaningful strides
toward addressing the pet overpopulation problem; an intact male dog
could literally produce hundreds of puppies in one lifetime!
A neutered dog is
less attractive to pet thieves. In some cases, a dog thief will
steal a pure bred dog for use in backyard breeding program. A
neutered dog is useless to a breeder; therefore, neutering a dog
makes it less likely that he'll end up a stolen pet.
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Limited
Registration
Limited
Registration means that the dog is registered buy no litters
produced by that dog are eligible for registration. No offspring of
a dog for which Limited Registration has been granted is eligible
for registration. Each registration certificate for such dog shall
carry notice of the limitation and the limitation shall continue,
regardless of any change of ownership, unless and until the owner(s)
of the litter at birth shall apply to AKC for removal of the
limitation
A dog registered
with any AKC Limited Registration shall be ineligible to be entered
in a breed competition in a licensed or member dog show. It is
eligible, however, to be entered in any other licensed or member
event. These events included: Obedience, Tracking, Field Trials,
Hunting Tests, Herding, Lure coursing, Agility and Earthdog.
Limited
Registration helps breeders protect their breeding programs. If
breeders do not want puppies used for breeding purposes, they can
request the Limited Registration option for those puppies.
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Miniature
Schnauzer Breed
Of the three Schnauzer
breeds from Germany---Miniature, Standard, and Giant---the
Miniature Schnauzer is the smallest. He originated from
breeding with the Standard, the Affenpinscher, and
the Brussels Griffon just before 1900, and now stands
from 12-14 inches tall and weighs between 11-20 pounds. The
Miniature Schnauzer is always full of energy and is very
devoted to his family. For his small size, he is a sturdy
dog and has the resistance to withstand many more common
canine ailments than other breed dogs. Due to the Miniature
Schnauzer's love of home life, he is never one that roams
and consequently makes an ideal companion dog.
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Temperament
The Miniature Schnauzer
is lively, alert, very friendly, highly
intelligent, willing to please, and affectionate, smart,
energetic, and makes an excellent watchdog. As a home
guardian the Schnauzer excels. The Miniature Schnauzer
readily accept friends of the family, but warns of strangers
with a strong voice. They are alert to their surroundings
and aware of change in the environment.
Once mature, the Schnauzer has strongly developed
territorial instinct. Their reaction is
usually to hold rather than to attack, and unless provoked,
has been known to keep an intruder cornered for quite a long
time. The Miniature Schnauzer is good with children and
appoints himself or herself as their guardian and protector.
Every Pack
Has An Alpha Figure
It is vital to your relationship with your puppy that you
establish good leadership early. The dog looks to you , or
should look to you, to be that leader. Proper training enhances
your relationship with your dog. The temperament of your puppy or dog is based on the amount
of time you give to your dog and its development and
socialization. Proper socialization and training are a must
for your puppy to be a well-adjusted, welcome member of your
family. Training is the "jewel" in the crown.
PUPPY KINDERGARTEN OR TAKE CONTROL, YOU'RE THE BOSS
No
dog should be allowed to
achieve dominate status over any adult or child.
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Coat Type
The Miniature Schnauzer
coat is harsh, wiry and short, dense undercoat. They are
non-shedding and are good pets for people with allergies.
The Miniature Schnauzer needs weekly brushing or combing and
a grooming every 2-3 months. The Miniature Schnauzer's coat
is made up of two layers: a hard wiry outer coat, and a soft
undercoat. The Miniature Schnauzer has two different kinds of coats.
Some puppies will have a regular coat and others will have a
"super coat". Puppies with a "Super Coat" (thick coat)
will have to be groomed more often than the regular coat
puppies. The hair grows faster. "Super Coat" puppies need to
be brushed more often because the hair will begin to
mat up or tangle up. Their coats may be totally different,
but they both have very soft beautiful coats.
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Standard Color
Black, Black and Silver
or some mixture of Salt and Pepper. The United States breed
standard recognizes three colors: Salt and Pepper, Solid
Black, and Black and Silver. Solid Blacks are entirely black
with a black undercoat, except they may have a small white
patch on the chest. When the Salt and Pepper is clipped, the
characteristic banded hair disappear and it becomes a solid
shade of gray, which can vary from a very light gray to a
dark slate gray. These three colors are allowed in the "show
ring" at this time. However, the American Kennel Club does
register other colors.
We have Miniature
Schnauzers that will come in a variety of colors. We
specialize in Black, Black/Silver, Silver, Salt/Pepper,
White, White Chocolate, RARE Chocolates, and PARTI colors.
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Toy Size
Some Breeders are now
producing Miniature Schnauzers that are under 12" tall. Many
people are using the term "toy" to describe them.
According to AKC, there is no such thing as a "Toy". However,
the "toy" schnauzer is not a separate breed from the
Miniature Schnauzer. It is simply an undersized Miniature
Schnauzer. The "toy" size will be registered as Miniature Schnauzer even though it is under 12 inches tall.
You
cannot "show" this undersized Miniature Schnauzer. If they
are under 12 inches tall they will never be allowed to enter
the "show ring". They typically weigh 10 pounds and under.
Toy Schnauzers are never taller than 12 inches.
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Teacup Size
Teacups
are not recognized yet
by the American Kennel Club. Leaving the interpretation up
to each breeder. Teacup size schnauzers are very fragile
and best suited to homes that have no children. Teacup
Schnauzers can be carried around in pet pocket carriers.
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Why Are
Teacups So Expensive?
They are difficult
to breed. They require a lot of extra attention at birth. Since they
are so fragile, often weighing 2-4 ounces at birth, they require a
lot of care and 24-hour attention for 2 or 3 weeks. Secondly, since
the demand is so high for Teacups, with demand for exceeding supply,
the price is higher. Price should not
reflect all that is invested in the puppies. A reputable Breeder
should never profit from the sale of puppies.
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Available At Gold
Leaf Schnauzer House
We do have
"toy" size schnauzers available from time to time. We
specialize in Miniature size and in "Toy" size
schnauzers. Both sizes make exceptional pets. The weight depends on their size and
bone structure. All are AKC registered as
Miniatures by the American Kennel Club. We have the
following sizes:
Large Miniature
weighs-- (15-20 lbs. and stands about
15-16 inches tall)
Small Miniature
weighs-- (12-14 lbs. and stands about 12-14 inches tall)
Toy
Schnauzer weighs--
(7-11 lbs. and stands about 8-11 inches tall)
Teacup
Schnauzer weighs-- (4-6 lbs. and stands about 6 to 9 inches tall)
Tiny Teacup
Schnauzer weighs-- (2-3 lbs. and stands about 3-5 inches tall)
Puppies grow at different rates. We can not guarantee adult
height and weight or confirmation of a puppy. The height and
weight is based strictly on the background generational
history of their parents and their ancestors.
We do not do inbreeding and inline breeding with our
Schnauzer family.
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Are These
Puppies Going to Be The Same Size As Their Parents?
No, this is not
always true. Puppies grow at
different rates. Many people do not understand this. Let's just
put it in a real life situation. Are all parents in the household
the same height? Do they all weigh the same thing? Ask the same
questions for children? The height and weight is based strictly on
the background generational history of the parents and their
ancestors. Never say, "If the momma and
daddy are big these puppies will be big".
Can anyone guarantee
this statement?
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Do Females
Make Better Pets Than Males?
No. It can not be
said that either male or female Miniature Schnauzer dog make better
pets. They are virtually the same dog. Females are just as brave as
males; males are not likely to wander any more than females nor are
they more "aggressive" than females (because neither are); both
males and females love you totally and without condition. The only
difference between a male and a female is their height and weight.
The Miniature Schnauzer dog is without question, the most versatile
and loyal dog. They are intelligent, eager to please, and loving.
They will protect your children and your home. The Miniature
Schnauzer will improve your life to the point that you will wonder
what you ever did without them.
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How
Much Does the Puppy Weigh? or How Big Will the Puppy Be?
To
determine the mature weight of our puppies, we take into
consideration the genetics of the puppy. We use a weight
chart to help us accurately determine what the puppy will
weigh at adulthood. The chart is used only as a guide and is
not a guarantee. Weight may vary depending on the diet. Many
factors influence a puppies growth; genetics, feeding,
exercise, litter size, etc. This chart gives us a fairly
accurate estimate of what your puppy's mature weight will
be. The height and weight can not be guaranteed, regardless
of the size of the
parents or the experience of the Breeder.
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What is a Pedigree?
All purebred dogs have a
pedigree. The pedigree does not imply that a dog is of show quality,
but is simply a chronological list of ancestors. Also, registration
papers only guarantee that a dog is a particular breed, nothing
else. Neither paper is a guarantee of the health or the quality of
your dog. A pedigree is a record of your dog's ancestors-sire
(father), dam (mother), grandsire, granddam, great-grandsire and so
forth.
What a pedigree doesn't tell you is very
important! Any purebred dog who meets the AKC's
requirements for registration may be registered and receive
"papers". The papers can't tell you if the dog is of good quality or
if it even looks like the breed it is supposed to be. All it can
tell you is that the dog is registered and his records are kept on
file. Most people misunderstand this important point! Many, many
poor quality dogs are AKC registered. You can't judge a dog's
quality from looking at only his registration papers or pedigree.
With this in mind, you now know that a pedigree can only tell you
who your dog's ancestors were. It can't tell you if they were of
good quality, what they looked like or whether they may have had
inherited health or temperament problems that they passed on to
their descendants.
A pedigree is
a tool to help breeders produce better dogs. It is a starting point
for research. A pedigree by itself doesn't mean much.
Without knowing what the dogs in the pedigree were really like, a
pedigree is just an impressive list of names!
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What Does CH mean?
CH. is the abbreviation for
Champion, a title that make everyone's heart beat a little faster! A
pedigree filled with champions, their names written in red ink, is an
impressive sight indeed.
Is a Champion a dog of
Exceptional quality?
Sometimes and sometimes not. A
champion is only as good as the competition he beats. In areas where
the competition is poor, a champion may be just slightly above
average for his breed. He may not be able to achieve his title in
places where the competition is tougher. Having a title doesn't tell
you whether he actually deserved it.
A championship title also can't
tell you if the dog was good breeding stock or if he/she had
inherited defects that were passed on to their descendants. Only
first hand knowledge from the people that actually knew the dogs in the pedigree can tell you that.
For more information on dogs
further back in the pedigree, you may have to resort to books and
magazines about your breed. Contact the national breed club to find
veteran breeders who can give you the history on dogs now deceased.
Pictures can only give you part of the story. You need to talk to
people who had first hand knowledge of what the dogs were really
like.
DON'T BE FOOLED by "Champion
Pedigree". Just because a dog way back in the pedigree is a
champion, doesn't mean that pup is show quality or even healthy!
There are plenty of Champions with bad hips and eyes.
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Sole ownership or Co-ownership
A breeder can
sell a dog under two basic ownership conditions: sole ownership or
co-ownership. In sole ownership the person purchasing the puppy owns
it outright. In a co-ownership the buyer owns the dog with the
breeder.
Regardless of
the specifics, it is important to understand that co-ownerships are
always done so that the breeder maintains a certain amount of
control over the puppy you are purchasing. How much control and who
benefits are the issues.
If you are
considering purchasing a puppy under co-ownership you need to be
very clear as to your obligations, responsibilities and to the
pros and cons of the arrangements. Read the contract carefully as some contracts only benefit the breeder. An example of a
one-sided co-ownership:
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Full
purchase price is paid by the buyer
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All costs
related to showing are the buyer's
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All costs
related to health and care are the buyer's
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Must breed
according to breeder's design and decisions only
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All costs
related to breeding and whelping are the buyer's
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Breeder
gets pick(s) of the litter and sometimes revenue for the
sale of the rest of the litter
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No
termination to the co-ownership once conditions have been
satisfied
In other words,
the co-ownership only or predominantly benefits the breeders!
Be cautious of
breeders who insist on co-ownerships for all puppies or dogs they
sell, including pet quality. When a breeder insists on co-ownership
for all dogs it is usually to maintain control over you and your
dog's life. This is not what most people want in a relationship with
a breeder.
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Why Are the Prices So High?
The price of a quality purebred dogs is a bit high these days.
Many people want to know why.
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Go to shows,
meet breeders, show commitment to breed (join clubs, attend
meetings, read books and articles)
COST:
$$$ per year plus many days and hours!
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Purchase show
quality dog to show (Note: the above step must be done first or
it is very hard to acquire a show dog of any worth!!)
COST: $$$$ to $$$$
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Maintain dog
(food, vet bills, de-worming, etc).
COST: about
$$$ per year per dog
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Show dog to
Championship to prove its worthiness and value to the breed.
COST: on the conservative side, about $$$$ Gas money,
entry fees and grooming products are included and not lodging.
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Assuming
success thus far, purchase another show dog of opposite sex
whose pedigree and physical characteristics (genotype and
phenotype) will compliment the first one. If not successful,
start over anyway. COST: add up totals above once if first
one worked out, twice if not
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When above has
been repeated (and paid out ) enough to have acquired and shown
two lovely dogs, one male and one female, who compliment each
other, you can now prepare to breed them by doing the necessary
genetic screening tests for that breed. Permanent identification
is required previous to the test. So for Microchip, CERF,
Patella and Cardiology screening and certification per dog.
Cost currently about $$$ per dog if you save money at
screening clinics.
-
If any dog
doesn't pass all the tests, stop, and start all over.
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If the male
and female pass the genetic screening to make sure no awful
stuff will be passed to the puppies, perform a Brucellosis test
on at least the female. Cost: $$
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If no one has
scary diseases, you may breed them. Now we have Ultrasound and
Xray exams for the hopefully pregnant female. COST: $$$
to $$$
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If you cannot
get female pregnant, stop, and start all over with new female,
male, or both.
-
If you have a
litter of 3 to 7 puppies, you will now need to feed them when
they start eating moma's food, give them at least 3 sets of
shots and de-worm them. You also need dewclaws removed.
COST:
$$ per puppy
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Puppies also
get microchipped, spayed or neutered, and rabies shots.
COST: $$$ per puppy
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If a C-section
is needed, add $$$ to $$$$ to litter cost.
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Puppy Mills and Pet
Shop Puppies
We are not a puppy mill. We do not
breed our puppies to sell to or transfer to wholesale outlets, dog
dealers, brokers, humane shelters, laboratories, pet shops or their
agents. We are reputable breeders dedicated to producing quality
dogs.
1. A real
puppy mill: A breeder who produces puppies with no breeding
program, little attention to puppy placement and poor health and
socialization practices. Conditions in puppy mills are generally
substandard and may be deplorable, and puppies and adult dogs be
malnourished, sickly, and of poor temperament.
2.
Broker: One who buys puppies from commercial kennels and
sells to retail outlets or other kennels. Brokers ship puppies on
airlines or by truckloads throughout the country. Brokers must be
licensed and must abide by the shipping regulations in the Animal
Welfare Act.
3.
Commercial breeder: One who has several breeds of dogs with
profit as the primary motive for existence.
Commercial breeders that sell directly to the public fall through
the regulatory cracks unless they do business in a state that
licenses commercial kennels. Dogs in these kennels may be healthy or
not and their conditions may be acceptable or not. The dogs are
probably not screened for genetic diseases, and the breeding stock
may or may not be selected for resemblance to the breed standard or
for good temperament.
4. Buncher: One who
collects dogs of unknown origin for sale to laboratories or other
bunchers or brokers. Bunchers are considered lower on the
evolutionary scale than puppy mill operators, for there is much
suspicion that they buy stolen pets, collect pets advertised as
"Free to a good home", and adopt unwanted pets from animal shelters
for sale to research laboratories. Bunchers are licensed and
inspected to make sure they they abide by the AWA.
5. Amateur breeder:
A dog owner whose pet either gets bred by accident or who breeds on
purpose for a variety of reasons. This breeder may be ignorant of
the breed standard, genetics, behavior, and good health practices.
An amateur breeder can very easily become a hobby breeder or a
commercial breeder, depending on his/her level of interest or need
for income.
6..
Hobby breeder: One who follows a breeding plan to
preserve and protect each breed; produces a limited number of
litters each year; breeds only when a litter will enhance the breed
and the breeding program; raises the puppies with plenty of
environmental stimulation and human contact; has a contract that
protects breeder, puppy, and the buyer; raises dog in the house or
runs a small, clean kennel, screens breeding stocks to eliminate
hereditary defects; work with a breed club or kennel club to promote
and protect the breed; and cares that each and every puppy is placed
in the best home possible.
The American Kennel Club avoids
defining "puppy mill" but does label a commercial breeder as one who
"breeds dogs as a business, for profit" and
a hobby breeder as "one who
breeds purebred dogs occasionally
to justifiably
improve the breed, not for purposes of primary income".
If a dog's price is more than the reasonable price, the buyers may
not realize it but they are helping some reputable breeders make "a
profit" even though they offer you a contract and health guarantee.
Some reputable breeders are in business "for a profit" just like the
commercial breeder. BUYERS
BEWARE. Note:
Price should not reflect all that is invested in the puppies. A
reputable breeder never profits from the sale of puppies.
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Types of Breeding
1.
In-Breeding: The mating of very close relatives, for
example, father to daughter, half-brother to half-sister, mother to
son, etc. Inbreeding intensifies as well as the strong points, so
considerable discretion must be used in the choice of the dogs. The
faults may be to such an extent, that, sometimes, entire utters have
to destroyed in cases where obvious anomalies occur. For this
reason, this type of breeding is not recommended to novice breeders.
Sometimes, inbreeding is the only option available, for example, in
the re-creation of a nearly extinct breed or in breeding program of
newly created breeds.
2. Line-Breeding:
The mating of dogs having many common ancestors or mating to a
slightly removed relative, for example, granddaughter to grandsire,
uncle to niece, etc. The benefit of line-breeding is the production
of more consistent litters. In order to have a chance to reinforce
desired characteristics and eliminate health problems one has to
have a thorough knowledge of both pedigrees of both the sire and the
dam for at least five generations. Most breeders adhere to a policy
of line breeding, whereby they can assure uniformity of quality
without risking the inherent dangers of inbreeding. This technique
appears to be the compromise between inbreeding and the doubts of outcrossing or outbreeding.
3. Out-Crossing: The
mating of two dogs that are the products of line breeding but of two
distinctly separate lines. Unless the two dogs involved in an
outcross are strongly linebred with a possibility of a certain
measure of prepotency, uniformity to the first generation is
generally doubtful. It is generally employed as a long-term
proposition to bring certain traits into a line that are otherwise
deficient. These traits then need to be intensified by proper line
breeding or inbreeding.
4. Out-Breeding: The
mating of two dogs who not only are the products of two distinctly
separate lines, but on top are not the products of line breeding.
Outbreeding is seldom employed since in most breeding programs dogs
that would qualify for outbreeding simply do not exist.
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Some have asked why they see such a
fluctuation in our Miniature Schnauzer puppy prices. Our pricing is
straightforward and reasonable. Here's why a Schnauzer from Gold
Leaf has been totally spoiled and received the very best care. This
type of care does not come without costs and even with the prices
below, we are not making a profit on the puppies. The mother
and father are cared for with the best care. All of our puppies and
dogs receive routine shots, best food- Eukanuba Small Bites Dry
Foods,
groomed, nutritional supplements- vitamins, regular and medicated
shampoos and conditioners, and lots of toys and chewing aids. Each
of our adult dogs also receive unlimited affection and love
from the entire family, which is priceless. We can not honor
suggested puppy prices just as we can not walk into a store or
shopping mall and suggest prices we want to pay for items. Therefore,
we believe that a
prospective puppy parent who will pay a fair and reasonable price is
more prepared to take care of their new baby and see that it gets
the very best!
Standard Puppy Prices
|
Basic Colors |
Male Special
Colors |
|
White --- $350
|
Parti --- $375
(Black, Salt/Pepper, Liver, Liver Pepper) |
|
Black --- $350 |
Liver --- $375 |
|
Black/Silver --$350 |
Liver/Tan ---$375 |
|
Salt/Pepper--- $350 |
Liver Pepper --- $375
(Liver version of Salt/Pepper) |
| |
Black & Silver --- $375
(Flashy --- will have heavy markings) |
| |
White Chocolate --- $375
( White with liver points) |
|
Adult Dogs |
White, Black, Black/Silver, Salt/Pepper --- $200 |
| |
|
|
Basic Colors |
Female Special
Colors |
|
White --- $400
|
Parti --- $450
(Black, Salt/Pepper, Liver, Liver Pepper) |
|
Black --- $400 |
Liver --- $450 |
|
Black/Silver --- $400 |
Liver/Tan ---$450 |
|
Salt/Pepper--- $400 |
Liver Pepper --- $450
(Liver version of Salt/Pepper) |
| |
Black & Silver --- $450
(Flashy --- will have heavy markings) |
| |
White Chocolate --- $450
( White with liver points) |
|
Older Puppies |
Puppies
5 months and older --- half their original price |
|
Adult Dogs |
Parti, Liver,
Liver/Tan, Liver Pepper, Black/Silver (Flashy), White Chocolate
--- $250 |
|