A & J  Gold Leaf

Miniature Schnauzers

 

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A & J Gold Leaf Miniature Schnauzers

409-892-3812

www.goldleafminiatureschnauzers.com

History of the Miniature Schnauzer

The Miniature Schnauzer was developed in the late 1800s as a small farm dog and ratter in Germany. It was derived from crossing the Standard Schnauzer with the Affenpinscher. The Miniature Schnauzer was exhibited as a breed distinct from the Standard Schnauzer by 1899 in Germany, although it wasn't until 1933 that the American Kennel Club divided the Standard and Miniature into separate breeds. The Miniature is the only Schnauzer to remain in the Terrier Group in America. In England it joins the other Schnauzers in the Utility Group. The Miniature Schnauzer came to America long after its Standard and Giant counterparts, but eventually became the third most popular breed in America at one time. Miniature Schnauzers developed from crosses between the Standard Schnauzer and one or more smaller breeds such as the Poodle, Miniature Pinscher or Affenpinscher. The Standard Schnauzer was the original size; then they were bred with smaller breeds to produce the Miniature Schnauzer.  Therefore, because the Standard Schnauzer was bred down to other smaller breeds; the height and weight is based strictly on the background generational history of the their parent and their ancestors. No warranty or guarantee is made to the disposition, appearance, lifespan, height, weight, color, show quality or breeding quality of any puppy or dog.

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Schnauzer Attributes                                                           Schnauzer Attributes

Standard Schnauzers                                                            Miniature Schnauzers    

Male Height---18-20 inches (46-51 cm)                                Male Height---12-14 inches (30-36 cm)

Male Weight---30-45 pounds (14-20 kg)                              Male Weight---11-20 pounds (5-7 kg)

Female Height---17-19 inches (43-48 cm)                             Female Height---12-14 inches (30-36 cm)

Female Weight---30-40 pounds 914-18 kg)                          Female Weight---11-20 pounds (5-7 kg)

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Advantages of Leaving a Female Dog Intact and Unspayed

A spayed female dog cannot breed. Spaying a dog makes it impossible for the dog to achieve pregnancy. If there's any chance that a dog owner may want to breed a female dog, spaying should be postponed. An ethical breeder who is concerned for the health of a female dog will only allow the dog to birth two or three litters of puppies; once the dog is finished breeding, she can be spayed, thereby getting all of the health advantages, just a bit later in life.

Spayed or neutered dogs cannot be show dogs. The largest, and most respected kennel clubs shows, like the American Kennel Club (AKC) will disqualify a spayed or neutered dog from competing in breed conformation dog shows. Therefore, a show dog cannot be spayed or neutered until he or she has retired from the dog show ring.

The Advantages and Benefits of Spaying a Dog

A spayed dog will not go into heat. A dog in heat can exhibit an array of undesirable behaviors. A dog in heat will often "call" and vocalize as a way to signal potential males. A female dog in heat will also be more prone to wandering or running away when she's in heat and she may return pregnant, which brings with it a whole host of health concerns. A female dog in heat will also be attractive to male dogs, hanging around the home of a dog in heat.

A spayed dog cannot get pregnant. It's obvious benefit, but a significant one. Terminating an unwanted dog pregnancy can be expensive and risky. A pregnant dog can be difficult to care for and once the puppies are born, they will require at least eight weeks of intensive care. Proper veterinary care for pregnant dog can also be very expensive, particularly if complications arise. In some cases. a female dog may die during pregnancy or during the whelping process. Anyone considering breeding a dog should remember this rule of thumb; Don't breed a dog unless you're prepared for the possibility of losing her.

Spaying a dog makes her less attractive to pet thieves. Unfortunately, there are many cases when an intact dog will be stolen from a yard or kennel and used for breeding. Clearly, it's easier to determine whether a male dog is intact, but many dogs are also stolen from kennels and boarding facilities, where a quick look at the dog's file will reveal if she is spayed. A spayed dog is useless to a dog thief who is seeking a "breeder."

A spayed dog is a healthier dog. Higher hormone levels are associated with a higher risk of developing cancer and other diseases. Spaying or neutering a dog lowers hormone levels, thereby reducing the dog's health risks.

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Advantages of Not Neutering and Leaving a Dog Intact

The dog may be used for breeding in the future. If there's a chance a dog may be bred in the future, it's best to hold off on neutering the dog. The neutering surgery can be performed at any age. So once the male dog has sired a few litters of puppies, he can be neutered at that time, thereby giving him the health benefits that neutering provides albeit later in life.

The dog will be eligible to take part in dog shows. The American Kennel Club (AKC) and other organizations will disqualify a male dog from show competition if he is neutered. Therefore, if the dog may be destined for a career as a show dog, then the dog owner will want to opt to keep the dog intact and unneutered.

Advantages and Benefits of Neutering a Dog

The dog will be healthier due to lower testosterone levels. High testosterone levels such as those found in unneutered dogs have been associated with illness and disease, like cancer. In fact, testicular cancer is a fairly common form of cancer that only affects intact dogs. Neutering a dog will make testicular cancer an impossibility and the dog will be less prone to developing other forms of cancer later in life.

The dog will exhibit fewer territorial behaviors, like urine marking. Testosterone fuels territorial behaviors like lig lifting, barking and urine marking. A neutered dog will also be less apt to exhibit territorial aggression toward other dogs and humans.

A neutered dog wanders less. When a female dog is in heat, a male dog can sense this and this causes many unneutered male dogs to wander off and run away from home in search of a female dog in heat.

A neutered dog cannot produce offspring. An obvious but major advantage, a neutered dog cannot reproduce. Neutering a dog makes meaningful strides toward addressing the pet overpopulation problem; an intact male dog could literally produce hundreds of puppies in one lifetime!

A neutered dog is less attractive to pet thieves. In some cases, a dog thief will steal a pure bred dog for use in backyard breeding program. A neutered dog is useless to a breeder; therefore, neutering a dog makes it less likely that he'll end up a stolen pet.

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Limited Registration

Limited Registration means that the dog is registered buy no litters produced by that dog are eligible for registration. No offspring of a dog for which Limited Registration has been granted is eligible for registration. Each registration certificate for such dog shall carry notice of the limitation and the limitation shall continue, regardless of any change of ownership, unless and until the owner(s) of the litter at birth shall apply to AKC for removal of the limitation

A dog registered with any AKC Limited Registration shall be ineligible to be entered in a breed competition in a licensed or member dog show. It is eligible, however, to be entered in any other licensed or member event. These events included: Obedience, Tracking, Field Trials, Hunting Tests, Herding, Lure coursing, Agility and Earthdog.

Limited Registration helps breeders protect their breeding programs. If breeders do not want puppies used for breeding purposes, they can request the Limited Registration option for those puppies.

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Miniature Schnauzer Breed

Of the three Schnauzer breeds from Germany---Miniature, Standard, and Giant---the Miniature Schnauzer is the smallest. He originated from breeding with the Standard,  the Affenpinscher, and the Brussels Griffon just before 1900, and now stands from 12-14 inches tall and weighs between 11-20 pounds. The Miniature Schnauzer is always full of energy and is very devoted to his family. For his small size, he is a sturdy dog and has the resistance to withstand many more common canine ailments than other breed dogs. Due to the Miniature  Schnauzer's love of home life, he is never one that roams and consequently makes an ideal companion dog.

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Temperament

The Miniature Schnauzer is lively, alert, very friendly, highly intelligent, willing to please, and affectionate, smart, energetic, and makes an excellent watchdog. As a home guardian the Schnauzer excels. The Miniature Schnauzer readily accept friends of the family, but warns of strangers with a strong voice. They are alert to their surroundings and aware of change in the environment. Once mature, the Schnauzer has strongly developed territorial instinct. Their reaction is usually to hold rather than to attack, and unless provoked, has been known to keep an intruder cornered for quite a long time. The Miniature Schnauzer is good with children and appoints himself or herself as their guardian and protector.

Every Pack Has An Alpha Figure

It is vital to your relationship with your puppy that you establish good leadership early. The dog looks to you , or should look to you, to be that leader. Proper training enhances your relationship with your dog. The temperament of your puppy or dog is based on the amount of time you give to your dog and its development and socialization. Proper socialization and training are a must for your puppy to be a well-adjusted, welcome member of your family. Training is the "jewel" in the crown.

PUPPY KINDERGARTEN OR TAKE CONTROL, YOU'RE THE BOSS

No dog should be allowed to achieve dominate status over any adult or child.

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Coat Type

The Miniature Schnauzer coat is harsh, wiry and short, dense undercoat. They are non-shedding and are good pets for people with allergies. The Miniature Schnauzer needs weekly brushing or combing and a grooming every 2-3 months. The Miniature Schnauzer's coat is made up of two layers: a hard wiry outer coat, and a soft undercoat. The Miniature Schnauzer has two different kinds of coats. Some puppies will have a regular coat and others will have a "super coat".  Puppies with a "Super Coat" (thick coat) will have to be groomed more often than the regular coat puppies. The hair grows faster. "Super Coat" puppies need to be brushed more often because the hair will  begin to mat up or tangle up. Their coats may be totally different, but they both have very soft beautiful coats.

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Standard Color

Black, Black and Silver or some mixture of  Salt and Pepper. The United States breed standard recognizes three colors: Salt and Pepper, Solid Black, and Black and Silver. Solid Blacks are entirely black with a black undercoat, except they may have a small white patch on the chest. When the Salt and Pepper is clipped, the characteristic banded hair disappear and it becomes a solid shade of gray, which can vary from a very light gray to a dark slate gray. These three colors are allowed in the "show ring" at this time. However, the American Kennel Club does register other colors.

We have Miniature Schnauzers that will come in a variety of colors. We specialize in Black, Black/Silver, Silver, Salt/Pepper, White, White Chocolate, RARE Chocolates, and PARTI colors.

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Toy Size

Some Breeders are now producing Miniature Schnauzers that are under 12" tall. Many people are using the term "toy" to describe them. According to AKC, there is no such thing as a "Toy". However, the "toy" schnauzer is not a separate breed from the Miniature Schnauzer. It is simply an undersized Miniature Schnauzer. The "toy" size will be registered as Miniature Schnauzer even though it is under 12 inches tall. You cannot "show" this undersized Miniature Schnauzer. If they are under 12 inches tall they will never be allowed to enter the "show ring". They typically weigh 10 pounds and under. Toy Schnauzers are never taller than 12 inches.

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Teacup Size

Teacups are not recognized yet by the American Kennel Club. Leaving the interpretation up to each breeder. Teacup size schnauzers are very fragile and best suited to homes that have no children. Teacup Schnauzers can be carried around in pet pocket carriers.

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Why Are Teacups So Expensive?

They are difficult to breed. They require a lot of extra attention at birth. Since they are so fragile, often weighing 2-4 ounces at birth, they require a lot of care and 24-hour attention for 2 or 3 weeks. Secondly, since the demand is so high for Teacups, with demand for exceeding supply, the price is higher. Price should not reflect all that is invested in the puppies. A reputable Breeder should never profit from the sale of puppies.

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Available At Gold Leaf Schnauzer House

We do have "toy" size schnauzers available from time to time. We specialize in Miniature size and  in "Toy" size schnauzers. Both sizes make exceptional pets. The weight depends on their size and bone structure. All are AKC registered as Miniatures by the American Kennel Club. We have the following sizes:  

Large Miniature weighs-- (15-20 lbs. and stands about 15-16 inches tall) 

Small Miniature weighs-- (12-14 lbs. and stands about 12-14 inches tall)

Toy Schnauzer weighs-- (7-11 lbs. and stands about 8-11 inches tall) 

Teacup Schnauzer weighs-- (4-6 lbs. and stands about 6 to 9 inches tall) 

Tiny Teacup Schnauzer weighs-- (2-3 lbs. and stands about 3-5 inches tall)

Puppies grow at different rates. We can not guarantee adult height and weight or confirmation of a puppy. The height and weight is based strictly on the background generational history of their parents and their ancestors. We do not do inbreeding and inline breeding with our Schnauzer family.

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Are These Puppies Going to Be The Same Size As Their Parents?

No, this is not always true. Puppies grow at different rates. Many people do not understand this. Let's just put it in a real life situation. Are all parents in the household the same height? Do they all weigh the same thing? Ask the same questions for children? The height and weight is based strictly on the background generational  history of the parents and their ancestors. Never say, "If the momma and daddy are big these puppies will be big". Can anyone guarantee this statement?

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Do Females Make Better Pets Than Males?

No. It can not be said that either male or female Miniature Schnauzer dog make better pets. They are virtually the same dog. Females are just as brave as males; males are not likely to wander any more than females nor are they more "aggressive" than females (because neither are); both males and females love you totally and without condition. The only difference between a male and a female is their height and weight. The Miniature Schnauzer dog is without question, the most versatile and loyal dog. They are intelligent, eager to please, and loving. They will protect your children and your home. The Miniature Schnauzer will improve your life to the point that you will wonder what you ever did without them.

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How Much Does the Puppy Weigh? or How Big Will the Puppy Be?

To determine the mature weight of our puppies, we take into consideration the genetics of the puppy. We use a weight chart to help us accurately determine what the puppy will weigh at adulthood. The chart is used only as a guide and is not a guarantee. Weight may vary depending on the diet. Many factors influence a puppies growth; genetics, feeding, exercise, litter size, etc. This chart gives us a fairly accurate estimate of what your puppy's mature weight will be. The height and weight can not be guaranteed, regardless of the size of the parents or the experience of the Breeder.

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What is a Pedigree?

All purebred dogs have a pedigree. The pedigree does not imply that a dog is of show quality, but is simply a chronological list of ancestors. Also, registration papers only guarantee that a dog is a particular breed, nothing else. Neither paper is a guarantee of the health or the quality of your dog. A pedigree is a record of your dog's ancestors-sire (father), dam (mother), grandsire, granddam, great-grandsire and so forth.

What a pedigree doesn't tell you is very important! Any purebred dog who meets the AKC's requirements for registration may be registered and receive "papers". The papers can't tell you if the dog is of good quality or if it even looks like the breed it is supposed to be. All it can tell you is that the dog is registered and his records are kept on file. Most people misunderstand this important point! Many, many poor quality dogs are AKC registered. You can't judge a dog's quality from looking at only his registration papers or pedigree. With this in mind, you now know that a pedigree can only tell you who your dog's ancestors were. It can't tell you if they were of good quality, what they looked like or whether they may have had inherited health or temperament problems that they passed on to their descendants.

A pedigree is a tool to help breeders produce better dogs. It is a starting point for research. A pedigree by itself doesn't mean much. Without knowing what the dogs in the pedigree were really like, a pedigree is just an impressive list of names!

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What Does CH mean?

CH. is the abbreviation for Champion, a title that make everyone's heart beat a little faster! A pedigree filled with champions, their names written in red ink, is an impressive sight indeed.

Is a Champion a dog of Exceptional quality?

Sometimes and sometimes not. A champion is only as good as the competition he beats. In areas where the competition is poor, a champion may be just slightly above average for his breed. He may not be able to achieve his title in places where the competition is tougher. Having a title doesn't tell you whether he actually deserved it.

A championship title also can't tell you if the dog was good breeding stock or if he/she had inherited defects that were passed on to their descendants. Only first hand knowledge from the people that actually knew the dogs in the pedigree can tell you that.

For more information on dogs further back in the pedigree, you may have to resort to books and magazines about your breed. Contact the national breed club to find veteran breeders who can give you the history on dogs now deceased. Pictures can only give you part of the story. You need to talk to people who had first hand knowledge of what the dogs were really like.

DON'T BE FOOLED by "Champion Pedigree". Just because a dog way back in the pedigree is a champion, doesn't mean that pup is show quality or even healthy! There are plenty of Champions with bad hips and eyes.

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Sole ownership or Co-ownership

A breeder can sell a dog under two basic ownership conditions: sole ownership or co-ownership. In sole ownership the person purchasing the puppy owns it outright. In a co-ownership the buyer owns the dog with the breeder.

Regardless of the specifics, it is important to understand that co-ownerships are always done so that the breeder maintains a certain amount of control over the puppy you are purchasing. How much control and who benefits are the issues.

If you are considering purchasing a puppy under co-ownership you need to be very clear as to your obligations, responsibilities and  to the pros and cons of the arrangements. Read the contract carefully as some contracts only benefit the breeder. An example of a one-sided co-ownership:

  • Full purchase price is paid by the buyer

  • All costs related to showing are the buyer's

  • All costs related to health and care are the buyer's

  • Must breed according to breeder's design and decisions only

  • All costs related to breeding and whelping are the buyer's

  • Breeder gets pick(s)  of the litter and sometimes revenue for the sale of the rest of the litter

  • No termination to the co-ownership once conditions have been satisfied

In other words, the co-ownership only or predominantly benefits the breeders!

Be cautious of breeders who insist on co-ownerships for all puppies or dogs they sell, including pet quality. When a breeder insists on co-ownership for all dogs it is usually to maintain control over you and your dog's life. This is not what most people want in a relationship with a breeder.

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Why Are the Prices So High?

The price of a quality purebred dogs is a bit high these days. Many people want to know why.

  • Go to shows, meet breeders, show commitment to breed (join clubs, attend meetings, read books and articles)    COST:  $$$ per year plus many days and hours!

  • Purchase show quality dog to show (Note: the above step must be done first or it is very hard to acquire a show dog of any worth!!)    COST:  $$$$ to $$$$

  • Maintain dog (food, vet bills, de-worming, etc).   COST: about $$$ per year per dog

  • Show dog to Championship to prove its worthiness and value to the breed. COST: on the conservative side, about $$$$ Gas money, entry fees and grooming products are included and not lodging.

  • Assuming success thus far, purchase another show dog of opposite sex whose pedigree and physical characteristics (genotype and phenotype) will compliment the first one. If not successful, start over anyway. COST: add up totals above once if first one worked out, twice if not

  • When above has been repeated (and paid out ) enough to have acquired and shown two lovely dogs, one male and one female, who compliment each other, you can now prepare to breed them by doing the necessary genetic screening tests for that breed. Permanent identification is required previous to the test. So for Microchip, CERF, Patella and Cardiology screening and certification per dog. Cost currently about $$$ per dog if you save money at screening clinics.

  • If any dog doesn't pass all the tests, stop, and start all over.

  • If the male and female pass the genetic screening to make sure no awful stuff will be passed to the puppies, perform a Brucellosis test on at least the female. Cost:  $$

  • If no one has scary diseases, you may breed them. Now we have Ultrasound and Xray exams for the hopefully pregnant female. COST:  $$$ to $$$

  • If you cannot get female pregnant, stop, and start all over with new female, male, or both.

  • If you have a litter of 3 to 7 puppies, you will now need to feed them when they start eating moma's food, give them at least 3 sets of shots and de-worm them. You also need dewclaws removed. COST: $$ per puppy

  • Puppies also get microchipped, spayed or neutered, and rabies shots.  COST:  $$$ per puppy

  • If a C-section is needed, add $$$ to $$$$ to litter cost. 

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Puppy Mills and Pet Shop Puppies

We are not a puppy mill. We do not breed our puppies to sell to or transfer to wholesale outlets, dog dealers, brokers, humane shelters, laboratories, pet shops or their agents. We are reputable breeders dedicated to producing quality dogs.

1. A real puppy mill: A breeder who produces puppies with no breeding program, little attention to puppy placement and poor health and socialization practices. Conditions in puppy mills are generally substandard and may be deplorable, and puppies and adult dogs be malnourished, sickly, and of poor temperament.

2. Broker: One who buys puppies from commercial kennels and sells to retail outlets or other kennels. Brokers ship puppies on airlines or by truckloads throughout the country. Brokers must be licensed and must abide by the shipping regulations in the Animal Welfare Act.

3. Commercial breeder: One who has several breeds of dogs with profit as the primary motive for existence. Commercial breeders that sell directly to the public fall through the regulatory cracks unless they do business in a state that licenses commercial kennels. Dogs in these kennels may be healthy or not and their conditions may be acceptable or not. The dogs are probably not screened for genetic diseases, and the breeding stock may or may not be selected for resemblance to the breed standard or for good temperament.

4. Buncher: One who collects dogs of unknown origin for sale to laboratories or other bunchers or brokers. Bunchers are considered lower on the evolutionary scale than puppy mill operators, for there is much suspicion that they buy stolen pets, collect pets advertised as "Free to a good home", and adopt unwanted pets from animal shelters for sale to research laboratories. Bunchers are licensed and inspected to make sure they they abide by the AWA.

5. Amateur breeder: A dog owner whose pet either gets bred by accident or who breeds on purpose for a variety of reasons. This breeder may be ignorant of the breed standard, genetics, behavior, and good health practices. An amateur breeder can very easily become a hobby breeder or a commercial breeder, depending on his/her level of interest or need for income.

6.. Hobby breeder: One who follows a breeding plan to preserve and protect each breed; produces a limited number of litters each year; breeds only when a litter will enhance the breed and the breeding program; raises the puppies with plenty of environmental stimulation and human contact; has a contract that protects breeder, puppy, and the buyer; raises dog in the house or runs a small, clean kennel, screens breeding stocks to eliminate hereditary defects; work with a breed club or kennel club to promote and protect the breed; and cares that each and every puppy is placed in the best home possible.

The American Kennel Club avoids defining "puppy mill" but does label a commercial breeder as one who "breeds dogs as a business, for profit" and a hobby breeder as "one who breeds purebred dogs occasionally to justifiably improve the breed, not for purposes of primary income". If a dog's price is more than the reasonable price, the buyers may not realize it but they are helping some reputable breeders make "a profit" even though they offer you a contract and health guarantee. Some reputable breeders are in business "for a profit" just like the commercial breeder. BUYERS BEWARE. Note: Price should not reflect all that is invested in the puppies. A reputable breeder never profits from the sale of puppies.

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Types of Breeding

1. In-Breeding: The mating of very close relatives, for example, father to daughter, half-brother to half-sister, mother to son, etc. Inbreeding intensifies as well as the strong points, so considerable discretion must be used in the choice of the dogs. The faults may be to such an extent, that, sometimes, entire utters have to destroyed in cases where obvious anomalies occur. For this reason, this type of breeding is not recommended to novice breeders. Sometimes, inbreeding is the only option available, for example, in the re-creation of a nearly extinct breed or in breeding program of newly created breeds.

2. Line-Breeding: The mating of dogs having many common ancestors or mating to a slightly removed relative, for example, granddaughter to grandsire, uncle to niece, etc. The benefit of line-breeding is the production of more consistent litters. In order to have a chance to reinforce desired characteristics and eliminate health problems one has to have a thorough knowledge of both pedigrees of both the sire and the dam for at least five generations. Most breeders adhere to a policy of line breeding, whereby they can assure uniformity of quality without risking the inherent dangers of inbreeding. This technique appears to be the compromise between inbreeding and the doubts of outcrossing or outbreeding.

3. Out-Crossing: The mating of two dogs that are the products of line breeding but of two distinctly separate lines. Unless the two dogs involved in an outcross are strongly linebred with a possibility of a certain measure of prepotency, uniformity to the first generation is generally doubtful. It is generally employed as a long-term proposition to bring certain traits into a line that are otherwise deficient. These traits then need to be intensified by proper line breeding or inbreeding.

4. Out-Breeding: The mating of two dogs who not only are the products of two distinctly separate lines, but on top are not the products of line breeding. Outbreeding is seldom employed since in most breeding programs dogs that would qualify for outbreeding simply do not exist.

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Some have asked why they see such a fluctuation in our Miniature Schnauzer puppy prices. Our pricing is straightforward and reasonable. Here's why a Schnauzer from Gold Leaf has been totally spoiled and received the very best care. This type of care does not come without costs and even with the prices below, we are not making a profit on the puppies.  The mother and father are cared for with the best care. All of our puppies and dogs receive routine shots, best food- Eukanuba Small Bites Dry Foods, groomed, nutritional supplements- vitamins, regular and medicated shampoos and conditioners, and lots of toys and chewing aids. Each of our adult dogs also receive unlimited affection and love from the entire family, which is priceless. We can not honor suggested puppy prices just as we can not walk into a store or shopping mall and suggest prices we want to pay for items. Therefore, we believe that a prospective puppy parent who will pay a fair and reasonable price is more prepared to take care of their new baby and see that it gets the very best!

Standard Puppy Prices

Basic Colors

Male Special Colors

White --- $350

Parti --- $375     (Black, Salt/Pepper, Liver, Liver Pepper)

Black --- $350

Liver --- $375

Black/Silver --$350

Liver/Tan ---$375

Salt/Pepper--- $350

Liver Pepper --- $375      (Liver version of Salt/Pepper)

 

Black & Silver --- $375      (Flashy --- will have heavy markings)

 

White Chocolate --- $375    ( White with liver points)

Adult Dogs White, Black, Black/Silver, Salt/Pepper --- $200
   
Basic Colors

Female Special Colors

White --- $400

Parti --- $450     (Black, Salt/Pepper, Liver, Liver Pepper)

Black --- $400

Liver --- $450

Black/Silver --- $400

Liver/Tan ---$450

Salt/Pepper--- $400

Liver Pepper --- $450      (Liver version of Salt/Pepper)

 

Black & Silver --- $450      (Flashy --- will have heavy markings)

 

White Chocolate --- $450    ( White with liver points)

Older Puppies Puppies 5 months and older --- half their original price
Adult Dogs Parti, Liver, Liver/Tan, Liver Pepper, Black/Silver (Flashy), White Chocolate  --- $250

 

 

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